Camino Primitivo: sólo hoy es hoy y es fantástico

‘Because I don’t live in either my past or my future. I’m interested only in the present. If you can concentrate always on the present, you’ll be a happy man. You’ll see that there is life in the desert, that there are stars in the heavens, and that tribesman fight because they are part of the human race. Life will be a party for you, a grand festival, because life is the moment we’re living right now’.


Around Easter this year I decided to head to Spain in order to walk the oldest of the Camino de Santiago routes: Camino Primitvo.

Last summer I explored the Spanish coast while walking the Camino del Norte and I have left with a lot of hunger for more. It was a pretty risky choice to get on track in March when the mountains are still snowy, foggy and very mood-changing. Still, it was a very complex and slightly painful journey.

Camino Primitive starts in Oviedo, I got there after a night of travelling and started walking. The most beautiful moment of every hiking day is the sunrise, when there is only the world waking up and you alone on an empty forrest road. It feels refreshing, cold and it tastes like freedom. You start realising your backpack is way too heavy and how much have you missed the nature.

I took only 10 days to finish it which was way too short. I ended up doing more than 40km daily and the snow made it as adventurous as exhausting. The people you meet on your way in extreme situations are the ones that stay in your heart forever. On my second day I arrived to a small Albergue placed in the middle of nowhere and realised one more time that people are just good. I came frozen, tired and injured and I found not only a fireplace and warm soup but also deep conversations and beautiful human beings who for one night became my family. They told me that every day is a gift and that there is no need to worry about the weather tomorrow. They woke me up with music and send me back on my way with a heart filled with gratefulness and peace, feeling 10kg lighter than the day before.

The most breathtaking part of the route is Puerto del Palo, the highest point you can pass. Mountains make us feel so small and meaningless and they make you realise that you are nothing but dust when facing the power of nature. It also makes you feel that the world does make sense, that everything is interconnected and the universe has a stunning mechanism of never-ending, mysterious life cycle.

I made my way through, I got a deep breath, I arrived to Santiago for the second time in a pouring rain and I absolutely loved it. I learned from the people on my way and I disconnected from the city jungle and digital world.

If you feel like you also need a break, don’t wait any longer.

  Milky mornings

Milky mornings

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